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Stirring Luxury Into Libations

Mezzanine, 960 Main St., Hartford, 860-524-9590
February 1, 2006
By GREG MORAGO, The Hartford Courant

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If it's at all possible to get a thrill from a revolving door, it would be at 960 Main in downtown Hartford. The ornate portals to the majestic G. Fox building are happily spinning with people eager to take in the Cartin Collection art exhibit, trendy cocktails at Room 960, lunch at Global Gourmet and shopping at the main level retail tenants. The grand old girl is alive and well -- gussied up in her Sunday best, tricked out in Deco bling.

Yes, it is thrilling to pass through the stunning atrium lobby and experience the architectural detail from a bygone era when something as ordinary as a handrail or a wall sconce made a statement. They still do, only more so today when such lavish attention to ornamentation hardly exists.

Now there's even more reason to hoof it down to 960 Main, but you'd do well to put on your velvet jacket and slip into your little black dress. There's a new venue in downtown's most prestigious address that you'll want to make an effort for. Mezzanine is a plush ``after five'' lounge located on the mezzanine level of the former department store. Swank is perhaps the best word to describe the cocktail lounge, outfitted with handsome furniture, rich textiles and low-watt lamps. It's a place that feels like a romantic boite your parents would frequent on special occasions (think of Dad leaving the house with his Chesterfield topcoat and Mom with her mink stole and kid gloves).

Lookswise, there's nothing else in Hartford like Mezzanine, and that's only part of what makes it special. But there are other unique factors: it's only open Wednesday through Friday from 5 to 9 p.m.; it features live jazz on Fridays; and it offers complimentary appetizers courtesy of Global Gourmet catering. (One of the nights we went we were served sesame noodles with a tablet of seared tuna. Another night there were chicken skewers with peanut sauce and a nice selection of gourmet cheeses.)

Fond memories of G. Fox infuse the lounge. A friend, sipping on a glass of champagne, recalled how his mother would leave him in the mezzanine to look through stamps and coins while she did her shopping. Another recalled Christmas shopping in the landmark store, and taking lunch in the Connecticut Room. Today, cocktailers can create new memories of this special space as the look down from the mezzanine rail out onto the marble atrium with its Art Deco flourishes reminiscent of the doors, lobby and elevators of New York's Chrysler Building.

Proper cocktails are called for. A Manhattan or Sidecar; a gimlet or gin martini. The female servers here enhance the period mood with their sweet vintage dresses and gold cocktail handbags that hold their wine keys and checks. We like the wines by the glass offerings ($8 each) that include gruner veltliner and malbec, neither of which you see much of on regular wine menus. We're happy to see a bottle list that includes fabulous grapes such as albarino, pinot blanc, riesling and tempranillo. In the mood for a red splurge? Reach for the Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon ($148 a bottle) or the Allegrini Amarone ($158) or the Caymus ``Bell Clos'' Pinot Noir ($150). These are pops meant to savor in appropriately elegant environs.

Those responsible for Mezzanine have done a good thing with this lovely lounge. It also makes a great transition venue between Global Gourmet's lunches and Room 960's late-night clubbing. A peek into Room 960 found the handsome nightclub looking even more spiffy than when it first opened more than a year ago with crisp new settees, Philippe Starck ``Ghost'' chairs and Kartell ``Bourgie'' lamps. Nice.

Haven't been to 960 Main in awhile? Now there's even more reason to go back to the future.

Mezzanine, 960 Main St., Hartford, 860-524-9590. Open Thursday & Friday at 5:00, Saturday at 7:00. Reservations Recommended.



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